Maryn McKenna

Journalist and Author

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Moving Beyond Factory Farms: Pastured Poultry

February 10, 2012 By Maryn Leave a Comment

It’s astonishing what you can not know about the place where you live. Me, for instance: I live mostly in Atlanta. I’ve lived here twice, once for 10 years as a newspaper reporter, and now — after a four-year break — for 15 months so far as a writer (and trailing spouse, which is how I got back here). Between working for one of the (formerly) largest papers in the country, liking long drives, and regularly indulging my ungovernable curiosity, I thought I knew Georgia pretty well.

I was wrong. Here’s what I learned about Georgia on Thursday:

  • It raises more meat chickens than any other place in the United States, about 1.4 billion of them a year.
  • That’s 15 percent of all the animals raised in confinement agriculture in the United States. Not just 15 percent of the chickens; 15 percent of everything.
  • All those chickens produce 2 million tons of poultry manure and litter a year, one-fifth of what the entire U.S. poultry sector produces.
  • That waste is applied on land — including land where other food crops are grown — from which it can run off and contaminate water supplies.
  • 40 to 80 percent of gut bacteria recovered from confinement chicken-houses are multi-drug resistant.
  • Caring for foodborne illness from organisms carried on chicken, and making up for lost productivity when people are made sick, costs about $2.4 billion per year.
  • Chicken catchers, who cage the birds on their way to slaughter, may lift 5,000 pounds in an hour. Slaughterhouse line workers may perform the same repetitive cutting motions 20,000 to 30,000 times in a work shift.
  • Slaughterhouses in Georgia kill 1 million chickens per week.
  • Poultry is exempt from humane slaughter regulations.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, antibiotics, chicken, food, food policy, Resistance, Science Blogs

Drug Resistance in Pork: More Going On Than Appears

January 31, 2012 By Maryn Leave a Comment

A paper released recently, by the University of Iowa team that is the lone US research group tracking “pig MRSA” ST398, caused a ripple. (It came out while I was at ScienceOnline and it’s taken me a while to catch up.) The paper compares the occurrence of MRSA, drug-resistant staph, on various cuts of retail pork from pigs that were raised either conventionally in confinement, with routine use of antibiotics, or in an alternative rearing scheme with no antibiotics. (NB: Not “organic,” despite what some headlines said; that’s a separate issue of USDA licensure.) The team found that both conventionally raised and antibiotic-free meat carried MRSA, both the human-associated kind and the pig-adapted kind.

The TL;DR over the past week has been: There’s just as much resistant bacteria on drug-free meat as there is on conventional meat, so why spend the money — or raise the alarm over farm antibiotic use?

My interpretation is a little more nuanced. But my takeaway is that, in its underlying data, the study proves what campaigners against ag antibiotic use keep saying: that once you use antibiotics indiscriminately and drive the emergence of resistant organisms, you have no way of predicting where that resistance DNA will end up.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, antibiotics, food, food policy, MRSA, Resistance, Science Blogs, ST398

Why Is Type 1 Diabetes Rising Worldwide?

January 26, 2012 By Maryn Leave a Comment

We’ve gotten sadly accustomed by now to warnings about obesity and its effect on health: joint damage, heart disease, stroke, diabetes and its complications such as blindness and amputation. We almost take for granted that as obesity increases worldwide, diabetes will also, and it is. That is, type 2 diabetes — the kind that is linked to obesity and used to be called adult-onset diabetes — is rising as obesity does.

But here’s a puzzle: Type 1 diabetes — the autoimmune disease that begins in childhood and used to be called juvenile-onset diabetes — is rising too, around the globe, at 3 percent to 5 percent per year. And at this point, no one can quite say why.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: diabetes, food, food policy, SciAm, Science Blogs

FDA Documents Show Agency Once Strongly Opposed Farm Antibiotic Overuse

December 29, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

The use of antibiotics and sulfonamide drugs, especially in growth promotant and subtherapeutic amounts, favors the selection and development of single and multiple antibiotic-resistant and R-plasmid-bearing bacteria.

Animals that have received either subtherapeutic and/or therapeutic amounts of antibiotic and sulfonamide drugs in feeds may serve as a reservoir of antibiotic resistant pathogens and non-pathogens. These reservoirs of pathogens can produce human infections.

The prevalence of multi-resistant R-plasmid-bearing pathogenic and nonpathogenic bacteria in animals has increased and has been related to the use of antibiotics and sulfonamide drugs.

Organisms resistant to antibacterial agents have been found on meat and meat products.

If you give the text above a close read, you might think it was written by Mark Bittman or Tom Philpott or Tom Laskawy, or me — or any of the small number of journalists who focus on the safety and policy perils of giving scarce antibiotics to confinement-raised farm animals. After all, what it says is what any of us would say: Routine administration of antibiotics to livestock spurs the emergence of drug-resistant bacteria that move through the food chain, threaten human health, and lend their DNA to yet other bacteria, increasing the reservoir of resistance in a dangerous and untracked manner.

As it happens, though, the text above wasn’t written by any of us. It was written by the Food and Drug Administration, the FDA.

Yes, the FDA — the federal agency that, as I wrote last Friday, has just backed off a 34-year attempt to assert regulatory control over “growth promoter” antibiotic use, opting instead for voluntary self-policing by the agricultural and pharmaceutical industries.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, FDA, food, food policy, growth promoters, Resistance, Science Blogs

News: FDA Won't Act Against Ag Antibiotic Use

December 23, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

With no notice other than a holiday-eve posting in the Federal Register, the US Food and Drug Administration has reneged on its long-stated intention to compel large-scale agriculture to curb over-use of agricultural antibiotics, which it had planned to do by reversing its approval for putting penicillin and tetracyclines in feed.

How long-stated? The FDA first announced its intention to withdraw those approvals in 1977.

From the official posting:

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA or the Agency) is withdrawing two 1977 notices of opportunity for a hearing (NOOH), which proposed to withdraw certain approved uses of penicillin and tetracyclines intended for use in feeds for food-producing animals based in part on microbial food safety concerns.1 … (1FDA’s approval to withdraw the approved uses of the drugs was based on three statutory grounds: (1) The drugs are not shown to be safe (21 U.S.C. 360b(e)(1)(B)); (2) lack of substantial evidence of effectiveness (21 U.S.C. 360b(e)(1)(C)); and (3) failure to submit required reports (21 U.S.C. 360b(e)(2)(A)).)

There is a lot of background to this, but here is the takeaway: For 34 years, the FDA has been contending that administering small doses of antibiotics to healthy animals is an inappropriate use of increasingly scarce drugs — a position in which it is supported by organizations as mainstream as the American Medical Association. With this withdrawal, it backs away from the actions it took to support that assertion — which may indicate there will be no further government action on the issue until after the 2012 election.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, antibiotics, FDA, food, food policy, growth promoters, Resistance, Science Blogs

Antibiotics: Connected to Obesity, Diabetes and Stroke?

November 25, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

In consideration of your glaze-eyed tryptophan coma — at least among those who weren’t frightened off by the MRSA-in-turkey news — today’s post is mostly composed of brightly colored pictures. (Also, speculation. You’ve been warned.)

About a week ago, a nonprofit research group called Extending the Cure published the latest in a fantastic series of maps they have been producing for several years, based on public and privately collected data. Earlier iterations have looked at the incidence of various resistant organisms over time. This time, they decided to look instead at the major drivers of resistance, and focused on national data about antibiotic prescriptions, broken down by drug type and by state between 1999 and 2007.

The graphics they produced document both a troubling growth in the use of some precious (because still effective) antibiotic classes, and also a surprising differential in the amounts of antibiotics prescribed in different parts of the country. The rate of use of antibiotics, measured by outpatient prescriptions per 1,000 inhabitants, varied from a low of 533 in Alaska to a high of 1,214 in West Virginia. [Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: antibiotics, CDC, diabetes, food, food policy, obesity, Resistance, Science Blogs

More MRSA Found In U.S. Retail Meat (Turkey, Too)

November 22, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

There are two new studies out that confirm, once again, that drug-resistant staph or MRSA — normally thought of as a problem in hospitals and out in everyday life, in schoolkids, sports teams, jails and gyms — is showing up in animals and in the meat those animals become.

The strain of staph that shows up in farm animals, known as “livestock-associated” MRSA or MRSA ST398, first emerged in pigs in the Netherlands, and has been widely identified in retail meat in Europe. (You can find a long archive of posts on ST398 here, and more here.) But that same strain has been difficult to identify in the United States. That may be due in part to the U.S. having a uniquely massive epidemic of community-associated MRSA, far larger than in any other country, which likely both obscures any animal epidemic from detection, and possibly also fills the ecological niche that livestock-associated staph might otherwise occupy. But, it must be said, there’s also remarkably little political will to look for livestock-associated MRSA (though the U.S. Department of Agriculture has now funded a study).

Nevertheless, individual investigators keep trying, and when they look for the pathogen, they find it, such as in these studies from May and this one from April. Now, two other teams have as well.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, antibiotics, FDA, food, food policy, MRSA, Resistance, Science Blogs, ST398, USDA

EU Parliament Votes To Oppose Most Farm Antibiotic Use

November 7, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

A quick post, because I’m on a ferocious deadline, but still can’t let this news go by. In a vote that’s non-binding but high profile and influential, the European Parliament has resolved to end “prophylactic use” of antibiotics in farming, and to prevent any “last resort” antibiotics from being used in animals, in order to keep resistance from developing so that the drugs will still be effective in human medicine.

This is a significant development. The European Union has already banned “growth promotion,” the use of micro-doses of antibiotics that cause meat animals to fatten more quickly. What the Parliament is doing here is asking the European Commission, the EU’s law-making body, to add “disease prevention” use to the ban. That’s the delivery of treatment-strength doses of antibiotics to all animals on a farm in order to prevent their becoming ill as a result of the confinement conditions in which they are held. It accounts for a substantial portion of the antibiotics used in agriculture, and is a major driver of the emergence of antibiotic-resistant organisms.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, antibiotics, Europe, food, food policy, growth promoters, Resistance, Science Blogs

Government Health Agency Agrees Mega-Farms Are A Health Risk (In The UK)

November 4, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

It’s very odd sometimes watching how the same issues play out in different parts of the world. The French environment ministry confidently ascribes the growth of seaweed choking its beaches to farm runoff. The European Parliament denounces the establishment of very large-scale “meat factories.” China (China!) enacts a ban on growth-promoting uses of antibiotics in agriculture.

Here in the United States, on the other hand, the government gropes unsuccessfully for a way to put controls on confinement agriculture, despite evidence of its environmental harm, while at the same time those farms grow by an estimated 4,600 hogs and 5,800 broiler chickens per day.

For more of that difference between Europe and the US, look this week to England, where the Health Protection Agency has just rejected the zoning application for a hog farm that was small by US standards, with a plan for only 2,500 sows producing about 20,000 piglets. The HPA said:

… those living up to 150 meters downwind of an intensive swine farming installation could be at risk of adverse human health effects associated with exposure to multi-drug resistant organisms. (this .pdf, p.30 of 44)

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, antibiotics, China, england, Europe, food, food policy, france, pigs, Resistance, Science Blogs

Big Move: Chicago Schools To Buy Antibiotic-Free Chicken

November 1, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

Big news today on several fronts: against the overuse of antibiotics in agriculture and for healthier food for school children. The Chicago Public Schools announced that its main food-service company, Chartwells-Thompson Hospitality, will begin buying and serving chicken drumsticks from birds raised in the local area without antibiotics. The deal will bring 1.2 million pounds of chicken to 473 schools per year, and represents about 25 percent of all the chicken that Chartwells-Thompson serves in the school system.

The new move was announced in a media telephone briefing that was hosted by the Pew Charitable Trusts’ Campaign on Human Health and Industrial Farming and included representatives from Chartswell-Thompson; the nonprofit organizations School Foods Focus and the Healthy Schools Campaign; Whole Foods Market, which is making it affordable to transport the birds; and Miller Amish Country Poultry, the supplier.

This is an important deal for several different reasons: [Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, antibiotics, Chicago, food, food policy, nutrition, Resistance, schools, Science Blogs

25 Dead From Melons: FDA Points to Packing Facility

October 21, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

Federal health authorities have determined responsibility for the vast 26-state outbreak of Listeria in cantaloupes, almost three months  — and 123 illnesses, 25 deaths and one miscarriage —  since it began.

In a long report released this week, they say they found Listeria not in the fields where the melons were grown, but in the packing and cold storage facilities on the single large farm where they all came from; and, in addition, they identified some practices on the farm that may have caused Listeria contamination or allowed it to multiply.

Just as a reminder of what was at stake here since we last talked about it: This is the first time that Listeria was found on cantaloupe in the United States, meaning there wasn’t a lot of past science to draw on. And this was a huge outbreak: The farm had 480 acres in cantaloupe, and shipped more than 300,000 cases of it. The number of fruit involved, according to MSNBC.com, may have been as high as 4 million.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: CDC, FDA, food, food policy, foodborne, Science Blogs

Is China Banning Growth Promoters And Do They Mean It?

October 7, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

A tantalizing prospect surfaced yesterday. The Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy in Minneapolis tweeted a link to a Sept. 13 story from an online agricultural trade journal that said, in its entirety:

China’s Ministry of Agriculture has announced a forthcoming ban on antibiotics as growth promoters in animal feed. The ban is supported by the academic community, which believes that without antibiotics in animal feed, the health of animals will be better promoted, microbes’ resistance to antibiotics will be lowered and food will become safer to eat. Recent statistics show that in 2006 China produced 210,000 tons of antibiotics, and 97,000 tons were added to animal feed. Today it is estimated that 400,000 tons are produced annually.

So, first: If this story is accurate, it would be huge news. But, second: The story lists no sources and is almost a month old; in that month, there has been no other major coverage of this decision that I can find — which means a responsible reporter (which I try to be) needs to do some digging rather than pushing the link along.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: animals, antibiotics, China, food, food policy, food safety, growth promoters, Resistance, Science Blogs

Cantaloupe Outbreak: 13 Dead, 18 States, More To Come

September 28, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

I’ve been away at a couple of very interesting conferences — more on those soon — so I’m late to this story; on the other hand, the story hasn’t even peaked yet, and thus there’s plenty of time for us to catch up.

So: An outbreak of foodborne illness that appears to be spread by fresh cantaloupes has sickened 72 people so far, in 18 states, and 13 have died. According to investigators, the source of the contamination has not yet been found. And also, according to a media briefing today, the contaminated cantaloupes were also shipped overseas, to countries that investigators would not identify. And, as an extra bonus, the tally of cases and deaths is likely to keep rising, because the particular illness in this outbreak has an incubation period of up to two months.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: CDC, FDA, food, food policy, foodborne, Science Blogs

Big News But: USDA Bans "Other" E. coli Strains

September 13, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

Good news, but not excellent news, today from the US Department of Agriculture: It has agreed that, starting in March 2012, six more strains of E. coli will be considered “adulterants,” putting them in the same regulatory category as the much-feared E. coli O157:H7.

It is a big step, to do this. Those six bacterial bad actors — technically, E. coli O26, O45, O103, O111, O121, and O145 — are now responsible for the majority of foodborne illness caused by E.coli in the United States, causing almost twice as much illness each year as O157 does.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: CDC, E. coli, FDA, food, food policy, foodborne, FSIS, salmonella, Science Blogs, USDA

Food Safety in China, and the Risk to the U.S.

August 23, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

Another week, another food-safety crisis in China. Several news networks — Associated Press, Australian Press and Xinhua — report that 11 people have died and anywhere from 120 to 140 were sickened by contaminated vinegar. Stoking tensions further is the reason so many were poisoned at once: The victims live in a small village in far-west Xinjiang province and are ethnic Uighurs, the minority group whose desire for political independence from Beijing led to brutally suppressed riots in 2009. Uighurs are overwhelmingly Muslim, and most of the small village, about 150 people, had gathered for an iftar meal to break their Ramadan fast.

The poisoning appears to be due to ethylene glycol; the vinegar had been stored in barrels that previously contained antifreeze. According to the AP, investigators haven’t yet been able to say whether the vinegar was put in the barrels out of ignorance, making it a problem of accidental contamination, or deliberately by an unscrupulous producer seeking to cut corners.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: China, food, food policy, food safety, Science Blogs

Drug Resistance in Food — Coming From Aquaculture?

August 12, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

In the midst of the giant Salmonella Heidelberg outbreak last week — now up to 107 cases in 31 states, and triggering a recall of 36 million pounds of ground turkey — it was easy to miss that a second and even more troubling strain of resistant Salmonella is on the move. As I wrote last week, that strain is called Salmonella Kentucky ST198, it is much more drug-resistant than the U.S. Heidelberg outbreak, and it has been spreading since 2002 from Egypt and north Africa through Europe, and has now been identified in the United States. Its primary vector appears to be chicken meat.

There is an interesting and troubling aspect to the spreading Kentucky strain that there wasn’t time to talk about last week, in the midst of the Heidelberg news. It’s this: The authors suspect that this enhanced resistance — to Cipro, and thus the class called fluoroquinolones that are very important in treating Salmonella — may have come into African chickens via drug use in aquaculture.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, food, food policy, Resistance, salmonella, Science Blogs

Resistant Salmonella: Deadly Yet Somehow Not Illegal

August 5, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

As the scale of the nationwide outbreak of Salmonella Heidelberg started to sink in Thursday — along with the stunningly large recall of 36 million pounds of ground turkey, much of it probably already eaten — there were a number of moments that made a careful listener need to stop and just think.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, E. coli, food, food policy, foodborne, Resistance, salmonella, Science Blogs

Highly Resistant Salmonella: Poultry, Antibiotics, Borders, Risk

August 3, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

If you’re a strain of Salmonella, it’s a very good week. If you’re a human, not so much.

There are two stories occurring simultaneously that underline the rising danger of drug-resistant organisms in the food supply, and the porousness of networks for detecting the dangerous bugs in time.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, food, food policy, foodborne, Resistance, salmonella, Science Blogs

Attack of the Deadly Slime: Farm Effluent Ruins French Beaches

July 26, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

Vacationers in northwest France are being warned to stay away from beaches, which are growing a bumper crop of a seaweed that releases a potentially toxic gas. The culprit: Up-stream releases of manure from intensive farming that overload the near-shore waters with nitrates.

The seaweed (sea lettuce, Ulva lactuca) must be removed within 48 hours of washing ashore — because as it rots, it releases so much hydrogen sulfide that swimmers and strollers are endangered. The French ministry for health and the environment has warned visitors to avoid areas with overgrowth, and told workers scooping up the seaweed that they must wear monitors to alert them they have entered especially toxic pockets and must clear out within minutes.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: agriculture, animals, food, food policy, france, Science Blogs

E. coli: A Risk for 3 More Years From Who Knows Where

July 7, 2011 By Maryn Leave a Comment

The latest news from the European Centre for Disease Prevention and Control, the EU’s CDC, suggests that the massive outbreak of E. coli O104 is declining. The number of new cases being discovered has fallen, and the most recent onset of illness among confirmed cases was June 27. The  toll is now 752 cases of hemolytic uremic syndrome and an additional 3,016 cases of illness in 13 countries, for a total of 3,768 illnesses including 44 deaths. (The EU adjusted that total to remove 161 cases that were suspected but not lab-confirmed. It also did not include the five confirmed cases, one suspect case and one suspect death in the United States.)

But a simultaneous report from the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) reveals that, despite the epidemic curve’s trending down, the outbreak can’t be considered over. The ultimate source — the contaminated seeds from which salad sprouts were grown — has been so widely distributed that no one really knows where they have gone or for how long they might remain for sale. One prediction, based on the probable package labeling, is that they could remain on shelves for three more years.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Science, Science Blogs, Superbug Tagged With: E. coli, ECDC, food, food policy, foodborne, Science Blogs, Who

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